Besides touring the expected historical spots in Philadelphia, the birthplace of America, several other interesting venues landed on our mostly unplanned itinerary that might be of interest to readers considering a trip. Here are some suggestions:
First, consider buying tickets on one of the hop-on, hop-off buses, which are open air on the top deck and come with guides to point out the sites. We learned that some guides are better than others, so if one guide grates on your nerves, just get off at a stop and catch the next bus. The various bus lines honor tickets from competitors, so you can jump on any of the tour buses. We didn’t know this until our first day on the streets of Philly, but the city operates a bus line called Philly Phlash that is also hop-on, hop-off. There is no tour guide, but once one has made the entire route with a guide, this is a more efficient way to get where one wants to go. Phlash runs from mid-May through Labor Day at very reasonable prices. Seniors and little kids ride for free. I qualify for the former and had none of the latter in tow. The Reading (pronounced red-ing) Terminal Market is a giant indoor farmers' market with more than 70 grocery and dining spots as well as other merchants. Fans of the game of Monopoly will recognize the Reading Railroad as a spot on that famed game board, originally called The Landlord’s Game and designed in 1935 as an educational tool to illuminate the evils of monopoly in businesses. It was developed during the Great Depression by Charles B. Darrow of Germantown, a venerable northwest Philadelphia neighborhood. I indulged in my first doughnut in at least a decade while inside the Reading Terminal, chowing down on a blueberry fritter that nearly brought tears to my eyes and sugar shock to my system. While on the topic of food, at the suggestion of several folks, we went to one of the city’s most famous establishments to sample a genuine Philly cheesesteak, considered a requirement for a first-time visitor. The service was impeccable, the atmosphere delightful. But at the risk of being permanently banned from the city, I must admit to not being a fan. The bread was wonderful, the grilled peppers and onions perfect, the provolone slices nicely cradled the bread’s bed. But the approximately quarter pound of chopped Black Angus beef had no seasoning and began feeling like a burden to eat after a few bites. I have definitely been spoiled by spicy fajita meat and smoky barbecue brisket. Maybe my taste buds have been ruined by decades of spicy beef, but I likely have eaten my last Philly cheesesteak. My arteries will not be disappointed. Finally, one of the most intriguing tourist stops is a tour of the ruins of Eastern State Penitentiary, right in town and blocks away from the considerably more hoity-toity Philadelphia Museum of Art. The hulking facility opened in 1829 and is considered the world’s first true penitentiary, a term implying prisoners serving penance for their crimes in silence and isolation. Each cell had a single, tiny window in the ceiling allegedly so God could keep an eye on the recalcitrant inmates. Upon completion, Eastern State Penitentiary was the largest and most expensive prison in the world. Gangster Al Capone spent time there, as did bank robber Willie Sutton. The prison closed in 1971 and opened as a tourist site in 1994. Anybody with teenagers eyeing a life of crime might consider taking them on a tour of Eastern State Penitentiary. Modern facilities might not be as foreboding, but even the mere possibility of being incarcerated in somewhere like this ought to keep wayward youth on the straight and narrow. Philadelphia truly is one of the friendlier cities we have visited, living up to its sobriquet. Just watch out for those doughnuts and don’t jaywalk. There are plenty of vacancies at Eastern Pennsylvania Penitentiary.